Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.
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Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern

October 9, 2019

The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

I made my sweater a little cropped and with 3/4 sleeves. Here in Arizona I just can’t wear heavy handmade sweaters. You could easily add length to the body of the sweater and to the sleeves if you’d like a warmer sweater. I love that this raglan is made with turned rounds because makes the seam almost invisible!

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

More Homemade Happiness:

Cozy Cropped Sweater // Holly Sweater // Tailgate Sweater

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern

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Materials
dk weight yarn in 2 colors – I used yarn I dyed myself (Main color: approx. 300g for S, 400g for M/L, 500g for XL/2X, 600g for 3X. Secondary color: 100g)
4.5 mm hook
yarn needle
scissors

Level
Easy

Pattern notes
Stitches & Abbreviations – US terms
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet

· written in US terms

· ch 1 does not count as sc

· ch 2 does not count as dc

· Gauge: 13 dc x 8 rows = 4” x 4”

· This top is made raglan style. It is worked in turned rounds.

· This top is close fitting with zero to negative ease. If you would like a looser fit, size up or go up a hook size.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X – The pattern is written in these sizes consecutively. Example, when the pattern gives the end of the row count as (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114 dc), the 74 is for S, 82 is M, 90 is L, 98 is XL, 106 is 2X, 114 is 3X.

Approx Finished Size:
Bust: S (31”) M (34.5”) L (38)” XL (41.5”) 2X (45”) 3X (48.5”)
Length: S (18”) M (20”) L (22”) XL (24”) 2X (26”) 3X (28”)
Sleeve Length: S (16”) M (18”) L (20”) XL (22”) 2X (24”) 3X (26”)
Size Small pictured I am 5’0” with a 34C” bust

EVERYDAY RAGLAN CROCHET PATTERN

Starting with the secondary color, ch 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116

Row 1: dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across, join to first dc with sl st (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114 dc)

Now you will be working in rounds

Round 2: ch 1, turn, *sc, fpdc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114)

Round 3: ch 1, turn, *bpdc, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first bpdc with sl st (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114)

Repeat round 2 & 3 one more time to Round 4 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114)

Change to main color

Round 5: ch 1, turn, dc in 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 stitches, 2 dc in next, ch 2, 2 dc in next, dc in 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 stitches, 2 dc in next, ch 2, 2 dc in next, dc in 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 stitches, 2 dc in next, ch 2, 2 dc in next, dc in 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 stitches, 2 dc in next, ch 2, 2 dc in next, dc in remaining stitches, join to first dc with sl st (82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122 dc)

Round 6: ch 2, turn, *dc in each stitch to the ch 2 space, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 space*, repeat from * to * around, dc in remaining stitches, join to first dc with sl st (90, 98, 106, 114, 122, 130 dc)

Repeat round 6 to Round 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 (186, 210, 234, 258, 282, 306 dc)

The sleeves are created in the next round.

Round 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch to the ch 2 space, dc in the ch 2 space, ch 3, dc in the next ch 2 space (skipping an entire section, this will be the first sleeve), dc in each stitch to the next ch 2 space, dc in ch 2 space, ch 3, dc in next ch 2 space (skipping an entire section, this will be the second sleeve), dc in remaining stitches, join to first dc with sl st (104, 116, 128, 140, 152, 164 dc)

Round 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch and ch around, join to first dc with sl st (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170 dc)

Round 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170 dc)

Repeat previous round to Round 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58 (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170 dc) (or until top is approx. 1.75” shorter than desired length)

Change to secondary color

Round 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60: ch 1, turn, *sc, fpdc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170)

Round 41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61: ch 2, turn, *bpdc, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first bpdc with sl st (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170)

Repeat previous 2 rounds to Round 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64 (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170)

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

SLEEVES

Join yarn to the bottom of one arm hole at round 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28

Round 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29: ch 2, dc evenly around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st

The next rounds include a dc2tog. Each round will decrease by 1 stitch. Decreasing is optional and you can stop any time the sleeve is tight enough.

Round 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in remaining stitches around, join to first dc2tog with sl st

Repeat previous round to Round 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56 (or until sleeve is approx. 1.75” shorter than desired length)

Change to secondary color

Round 37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58: ch 1, turn, *sc, fpdc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59: ch 2, turn, *bpdc, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first bpdc with sl st

Repeat previous 2 rounds to Round 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

And you’re done with this simple raglan! I hope you love it!

Looking for more patterns? Follow me on FacebookInstagram, and Pinterest! Please share a pic of your finished product with me. I’d love to see it!

Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern - The Everyday Raglan Crochet Pattern is quick, easy, and very customizable. I used DK weight yarn with a 3/4 length sleeve to make this sweater perfect for the warm fall we have here in Arizona.

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Love the top will go on my list to do
    May have to make longer as I’m a rather large lady and crop top won’t look good lol.

  2. I’m a tad confused about the rounds since there are more then one round for some of the rounds. Like there are two rounds with eve sleeves…Round 23 is stated two times…along with Round 25…27…29. Please advise.

    1. Hi! I’m not sure what you mean. Are you looking at the Round number? When is says Round 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29? Those refer to the different sizes ?

    2. Why can’t we simply repeat round 2 as 3 and 4.. instead of turning our work?? We would hav to do fpdc instead of body… is there a reason you are turning?? Sorry my knowledge is very low.. just trying to understand

      1. Hi! The turn will hide the seam, make the seam straighter, and creates a different texture 🙂 Hope this helps!

  3. Hi, I love the look of this top, but don’t quite understand how to make the rounds after the first row is crocheted. Do you have a video tutorial for this pattern?

  4. Breann…I purchased pattern on etsy. I’m a beginner so I have some questions…is the pattern starting with the bottom ribbing and working up to the neck ribbing?
    I did a swatch and it matches your measurements. However when I finished the first row of double crochets, the band (is it the bottom band?} is way too tight. I’m usually a large but I made followed instructions for 2x and used a 5.0 mm rather than a 4.5mm. Why is it too tight?

    1. Hi! This sweater is worked from the top down 🙂 The first rounds are the neckline. Hope this helps!

  5. I am just starting this sweater and am on row 4 (row 2 & 3 repeated). It appears that I am crocheting the sweater inside out since the pattern is on the inside of the circle. Did i do something wrong?

  6. Hello Breann!

    Thank you for this pattern. I made a swatch with DK yarn and a 4.5mm hook but it measures 3″ by 3″ instead of 4″ by 4″. What do I do? Do I use a bigger hook?

      1. I have used a 5mm hook and my swatch doesn’t still measure. I have also used a 6mm hook and it measures. However, I do not want this sweater to be loose fit. What can I do now?

        Thanks for your help, Breann!

        1. Hi! I would use whatever hook matches gauge. I tend to crochet loose so you might just crochet tighter than me 🙂

      2. I have used a 5mm hook and my swatch still doesn’t measure yours. But I have used a 6mm hook and it measures. However, I do not want this garment to be loose fit. What do I do?

        Thank you for your help, Breann.

        1. Okay. I’d go ahead with the 6mm hook then. I really love this pattern and I want my raglan top to come out perfectly. But do you suggest that I size down, given the hook I’m going to be using? My bust measured 42″. Since I’m using a 6mm hook and my top may come out stretchy, do you think I should follow the instructions for L?

          1. Hello Breann!

            I’m still here waiting for you to reply my last comment. ?

            Thank you!!

          2. If you’re matching gauge with the 6 mm hook then you’re sweater should be the same amount of “stretchiness” as mine 🙂 I would stick with your measurements with the hook that matches gauge. Hope that helps!!

  7. Hello Breann! Hope all is well. I am wondering if I could make this using size 1yarn? I can’t wrap my head around what adjustments would need to be made to fit gauge. Any way you could explain? Thanks a bunch!

    1. Hi! You’ll have to use a large hook. I don’t think you’ll be able to make gauge with such small yarn. The stitches would have to be really large.

      1. Thank you very much for your help. I really want to use this yarn but most patterns call for the thicker yarns 🙃

        1. This is just a thought…if you have lots of yarn, you may be able to meet gauge by using three or 4 strands of the thin yarn. Maybe using 1 strand of your thin yarn and one strand of a size 2 or 3. This may or not work out.

          1. On another project I came across a question similar to mine, she wanted to know if you could substitute smaller yarn, it was suggested to go up a size (or two) in the pattern, I haven’t tried this but I hope to and I’ll let you know how it goes 🙂

      2. Hi I’m sorry to sound daft , but this is my first time trying a jumper and I’m already lost . On row 2 it say sc, fpdc in the next stich dose that mean sc THEN fpdc in the next stitch and carry on not sc and fpdc in the same stich . I’d be so grateful if you could help me I’m on the verge of tears lol x

    1. Hi! In the corner ch 2 space work (dc, ch 2, dc) all in the ch 2 space. Then dc in the next stitch and across to the next ch 2 space 🙂

      1. Sorry, I might not be clear. I mean when we start the round, do ch2 and turn then dc in the next stitch or the same stitch (that ch2 comes out)? Thank you for your explaination ^_^

        1. The next stitch 🙂 Since your turning, where the ch 2 comes is actually the sl st. So you’re very last stitch goes with the ch 2

  8. Hi, I don’t understand on the neck rib, it’s says after rnd 3 to repeat rnd 2&3 one more time to rnd 4, wouldn’t that be rnd 5?

  9. Hello I am at round 5c it says change to main color, chain one and then dc in stitches 10? What about the first 9 stitches, do we slip stitch til stitch 10?

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