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Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

The Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is a cozy, textured layering piece that’s fun to make and even more fun to wear! This cardigan is worked as a flat panel, with simple seaming at the shoulders. The sleeves are then added in rounds, making it a straightforward and beginner-friendly garment construction.

Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

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Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

The combination of stitches in this pattern is what makes it really shine. The lemon peel stitch gives a subtle, all-over texture, while the cluster stitch adds a soft, squishy feel and lots of visual interest. Paired with ribbed edges worked in post stitches, this cardigan has that handmade-yet-polished look that makes it a closet favorite.

About the Pattern

  • Skill Level: Advanced beginner to intermediate. If you’ve tried basic stitch combos before, you’ll love experimenting with the textures in this piece.
  • Construction: Worked flat in one large panel, seamed at the shoulders. Sleeves are crocheted in rounds and attached directly to the body.
  • Stitches Used: Lemon peel stitch, cluster stitch, post stitches (for ribbing).
  • Yarn: Worsted weight yarn – making it both warm and lightweight enough for layering.

Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

What You’ll Love

✨ A cozy, textured fabric that feels squishy and warm.
✨ Simple construction β€” no complicated shaping required.
✨ Customizable length and sleeve fit.
✨ A cardigan you’ll reach for all season long.

The Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is perfect for when you want a project that’s relaxing but still keeps things interesting with stitch variety. Whether you wear it over jeans and a tee or dress it up, this handmade cardigan is sure to be a go-to layering piece in your wardrobe.

Making the Cluster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

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Materials
Worsted weight acrylic yarn (I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Taupe β€” 4 skeins for S/M, 5 skeins for L/XL, 6 skeins for 2X/3X)
I/5.5 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
stitch markers

Level
intermediate

Pattern notes & stitches to know
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
CL – cluster – (*yarn over, insert stitch into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops* repeat from * to * once more in same stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
st(s) – stitch(es)
rs – right side
ws – wrong side

Β· written in US terms

Β· ch 2 does not count as dc

Β· ch 1 does not count as sc

Β· This cardigan is made as one rectangle, with openings for the sleeves (like the graphic below). There is a little sewing across the shoulders. Then the sleeves are added with turned rounds and last the collar.

Β· Gauge: 14 stitches (alternating sc & dc) x 14 rows = 4” x 4”
 

Sizes:
(S, M, L) (XL, 2X, 3X) – The pattern is written in these sizes consecutively. Example, when the pattern gives the end of row count ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) dc) the 125 is for S, 139 is M, 153 is L, 167 is XL, 181 is 2X, 195 is 3X.

This sweater is a loose fit with some positive ease.

Approx Finished Size:
Bust: S (40”) M (44”) L (48”) XL (52”) 2X (56”) 3X (60”)
Length: S (18”) M (18.5”) L (20.5”) XL (21”) 2X (23”) 3X (23.5”)
Armhole Depth: S (7.5”) M (8”) L (8.5”) XL (9”) 2X (9.5”) 3X (10”)
Sleeve Length (from seam): S (17”) M (17.5”) L (18”) XL (18.5”) 2X (19”) 3X (19.5”)
Size Small pictured. I am 5’0” with 34” bust

ch (127, 141, 155) (169, 183, 197)

Row 1 (ws): starting in 3rd ch from the hook, dc in each st across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) dc)

Row 2 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *bpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 4 – 5: repeat rows 2 & 3

Row 6 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each st ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sc)

Row 7 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 8 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 9 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((125, 139, 153) (167, 181, 195) sts)

Row 10 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 st* repeat from * to * across to last st, dc in last st ((61, 68, 75) (82, 89, 96) CL)

Row 11 (ws): working in each st and ch-1 space across, repeat row 7

Row 12 (rs): repeat row 8

Row 13 (ws): repeat row 9

Row 14 – (34, 34, 38) (38, 42, 42) (rs): repeat rows 10 – 13, ending with a row 10 repeat

This is the length before the armholes are made. To adjust the length, add or take out rows as needed.

Section A is made in the next rows. You will only work partly across the row, then turn.

Section A (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each st and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 st* repeat from * to * across to last st, dc in last st ((13, 15, 16) (18, 20, 22) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

The height of Section A is the size of your armhole. Add or take out rows as needed.

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Section B (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

With Section A on the right, join yarn to the CL next to the last stitch from Section A: Row 1. (skip the ch-1 space)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each stitch and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) stitches ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from 8 to * across ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((65, 71, 81) (87, 93, 99) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 stitch* repeat from * to * across to last stitch, dc in last stitch ((31, 34, 39) (42, 45, 48) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

Or until it’s the same length as Section A

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Section C (optional: place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark as row 1)

With Section A & B on the right, join yarn to the CL next to the last stitch from Section B: Row 1 (skip the ch-1 space)

Row 1 (ws): (working in each stitch and ch-1 space across) ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * for a total of (29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) stitches ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *sc in next, dc in next* repeat from 8 to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 3 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *dc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((29, 33, 35) (39, 43, 47) sts)

Row 4 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, *CL in next, ch 1, skip 1 stitch* repeat from * to * across to last stitch, dc in last stitch ((13, 15, 16) (18, 20, 22) CL)

Row 5 – Row (18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28) (rs): repeat rows 1 – 4

Or until it’s the same length as Section A & B

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

SEWING

Fold sections A & C towards the middle (section B). Line up the edges across the top with stitch markers. Use the long ends and a yarn needle to whip stitch the shoulders closed.

SLEEVES

With cardigan facing right side out, join yarn to the bottom of an armhole

Round 1 (rs): ch 1, sc evenly around the sleeveβ€”make sure the total number of stitches is a mult of 6, join to first sc with sl st (approx. (54, 60, 66) (72, 78, 84) sc)

Round 2 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, sc in next, *sc dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 3 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc3tog, sc in next, *dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st (sts decrease by 2)

Round 4 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, sc in next, *sc dc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 5 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st, *CL in next, ch 1 skip 1 st* repeat from * to * around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 6 – Round (41, 43, 45) (47, 49, 51) (rs): repeat rounds 2 – 5

Or until desired sleeve length before the cuff begins.

CUFF

(Optional: place a stitch marker at beginning of next round to mark as round 1 for the cuff)

Round 1 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc2tog, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 2 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each st around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 3 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in each st around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 4 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, fpdc in next, *sc in next st, fpdc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 5 (ws): ch 1 turn, bpdc in first st, sc in next, *bpdc in next st, sc in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first bpdc with sl st

Round 6 – 8 (rs): repeat rounds 4 & 5 – ending with a round 4 repeat

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

COLLAR

With cardigan facing right side out, join yarn to the bottom left corner of the cardigan.

The collar is worked all the way around to the opposite corner.

Row 1 (rs): ch 1, sc evenly around the entire collar to the opposite corner on the bottom rightβ€”make sure the total number of stitches is an odd number

Row 2 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in each st across

Row 3 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Row 4 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *bpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Row 5 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *fpdc in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across

Or until desired collar width.

Fasten off.  Weave in the ends.

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26 Comments

      1. I love this pattern and so excited to get started and make it but I am confused on the an and c sections being folded into the middle. I just started following you and I have tons of projects I am excited to make. Thanks for your generosity and making these free for us. Merry Christmas!

        1. Hi! The cardigan is made as one whole rectangle. There will be splits for the armholes. When sections a and c get folded toward the center you will sew across the top and the splits will become the armholes. I have a video tutorial for a different sweater that uses the same method. At 11:36 you can see where I will do this part of the sweater. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86xhWH2KvfM&t=11s

  1. I am making the 2xl. When making the first sleeve, I have 96 single crochet stitches in the first round. The arms are looking too big. Is 96 way too many stitches?

      1. Not following. I understand the sc in the end but not sure how that will reduce the # of stitches. Sorry! Confused. LOL

        1. If you’re making a 2X then you should have approx 60 rows around the armhole. So if you work 1 sc in the end of each row you should get about 60 stitches.

  2. I am confused on what the cluster consists ofβ€”the whole dc2tog, dc3tog, sc2tog? That seems to make the row too wide

  3. Hi! I would really like to make this cardigan, but I can’t seem to find a gauge for it, did I miss that in the pattern?
    Thanks for your help!

  4. Hi Breann, would a foundation dc row work instead of chains and a dc row? Thanks for your patterns, always so clear to follow. Susan

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