Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.
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Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

August 27, 2018

The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It’s long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

Don’t let the extra long length of this duster worry you. It’s finished up quicker than you might think. I used the Offset V Stitch and not only does it give a pretty and open design, but it made this a fast project. Plus, this stitch is an easy 1 row repeat.

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

For this cardigan I used one of my favorite acrylic yarns, Lion Brand Jean’s Yarn! It’s so soft and squishy, but it’s a a durable acrylic which makes it super easy to take care of. There are some great colors to choose from. I picked these because they just screamed fall to me. I am so ready for cooler weather so I can wear this duster out and about. I think it would be so cute with skinny jeans and booties. So grab you favorite worsted weight yarn and let’s go!

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun bell at the hips and in the sleeves. #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

click here to pin this pattern for later >>

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern - The Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern is just what you need for fall! It's long, comfy, and has a fun flare at the hips and in the sleeves. But I especially love the length of this cardigan.

Boho Duster Cardigan Crochet Pattern

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Materials
Worsted weight yarn – approximately 500g for S/M, 600g for L/XL (I used Lion Brand Jean’s Yarn in Khaki, Top Stitch, and Corduroy)
H/5.0 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

Level
Intermediate

Pattern notes & stitches to know
Sl st – slip stich
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
V stitch – (dc, ch 1, dc) in same stitch

Written in US terms

Ch 3 counts as dc

Approximate Finished Sizes (S pictured on 5’0” model)
Length: S (43”) M (44.5”) L (46”) XL (47.5”)
Shoulder Width: S (18”) M (20”) L (22”) XL (24”)
Hip Width: S (22.5”) M (25”) L (27.5”) XL (30”)
Sleeves: S (19”) M (21”) L (23”) XL (25”) (note about sizing in pattern)

Gauge:
5 v stitches = 4”
6 rows = 4”

COLOR KEY & STRIPE PATTERN
Khaki = A
Top Stitch = B
Corduroy = C

Begin on row 33 (35) [37] {39}:1 row: B
3 rows: A
2 rows: B
2 rows: A
3 rows: B
1 row: A
5 rows: B
1 row: C
3 rows: B
2 rows: C
2 rows: B
3 rows: C
1 row: B
5 rows: C

BOHO DUSTER CARDIGAN

BACK

Pattern written in S, M noted in ( ), L noted in [ ], XL noted in { }

In Color A ch 62 (68) [74] {80}, leave a long starting end for sewing

Row 1: dc in 5th ch from the hook, (ch 4 counts as dc + ch 1) *skip 2 stitches, v stitch in next* repeat from * to * across to last 3 stitches, skip 2, dc in last (19 v stitches, (21 v stitches), [23 v stitches], {25 v stitches}, 1 dc)

Row 2: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, *skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (the turning ch from previous row) (19 v stitches, (21 v stitches), [23 v stitches], {25 v stitches}, 1 dc)

Repeat row 2 to Row 28 (30) [32] {34}

The next row will have an increase that creates the bell shape

NOTE: A this point, the cardigan should reach the top of your hips. If it doesn’t, add or take out rows as needed

Row 29 (31) [33] {35}: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc, v stitch in next ch space, * v stitch in next dc, skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc, v stitch in next ch space* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (28 v stitches, (31 v stitches), [34 v stitches], {37 v stitches} ,1 dc)

If the repeat doesn’t work out perfectly, that’s ok. It doesn’t matter exactly how many v stitches there are, just that a “bell” shape is created

(if you want the stripes as pictured, use stripe guide above)

Row 30 (32) [34] {36} – 66 (68) [70] {72}: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, *skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (28 v stitches, (31 v stitches), [34 v stitches], {37 v stitches} ,1 dc)

Fasten off, leave a long end for sewing

Weave in other ends

FRONT (make 2)

In Color A ch 32 (35) [38] {41} (multiple of 3 + 2), leave a long starting end for sewing

Row 1: dc in 5th ch from the hook, (ch 4 counts as dc + ch 1) *skip 2 stitches, v stitch in next* repeat from * to * across to last 3 stitches, skip 2, dc in last (9 v stitches, (10 v stitches), [11 v stitches] {12 v stitches], 1 dc)

Row 2: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, *skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (the turning ch from previous row) (9 v stitches, (10 v stitches), [11 v stitches] {12 v stitches], 1 dc)

Repeat row 2 to row 28 (30) [32] {34}

The next row will have an increase that creates the bell shape

NOTE: If rows were added or taken out in the back panel, do the same for the front

Row 29 (31) [33] {35}: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc, v stitch in next ch space, *v stitch in next dc, skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc, v stitch in next ch space* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (13 v stitches, (15 v stitches), [16 v stitches], {18 v stitches}, 1 dc)

If the repeat doesn’t work out perfectly, that’s ok. It doesn’t matter exactly how many v stitches there are, just that a “bell” shape is created

(use the same striping pattern as the back)

Row 30 (32) [34] {36} – 66 (68) [70] {72}: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, *skip next dc and ch, v stitch in next dc* repeat from * to * across to last v stitch, dc in last stitch (13 v stitches, (15 v stitches), [16 v stitches], {18 v stitches}, 1 dc)

Fasten off, leave a long end for sewing

Weave in other ends

SEWING

Lay the two front pieces on top of the back. Sew across the shoulders with a whip stitch. I marked where to sew with stitch markers and then I used the long ends for sewing.

After sewing the shoulders I tried the cardigan on. I use a stitch marker to mark where I wanted the sleeves to be.

(As a guide, leave approximately 10 rows for a S, 12 rows for a M, 14 rows for a L, 16 rows for a XL — or wherever you want them 🙂 )

Sew the sides closed with a whip stitch. I used the long ends for sewing.

Fasten off, weave in all your ends.

SLEEVES

NOTES FOR THE SLEEVE:

  • I did not include the number of stitches for each round, as they might be a little different for everyone
  • You will be working in rounds
  • The offset V stitch will be made different than it was with the body of the sweater because you will be working in rounds
  • Sleeve measurements are from round 1 to the end, does not count the body of the cardigan

Join Color A

Round 1: ch 1, sc evenly around (the amount needs to be a multiple of 3), join to first sc with sl st

Round 2: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, skip 2 stitches, *v stitch in next, skip 2 stitches* repeat from * to * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st

Round 3: sl st over 2 stitches to the next dc, ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, skip next dc and ch, *v stitch in next, skip next dc and ch* repeat from * to * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st, join to first ch 3 with sl st

Round 4: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, skip ch and next dc, *v stitch in next, skip ch and next dc* repeat from * to * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st, join to first ch 3 with sl st

Repeat round 3 & 4 to round 9 (11) [13] {15}

The next row will have an increase that creates the bell shape

NOTE: At this point, the sleeve should reach approximately to your elbow. If it doesn’t, add or take out rows as needed

Round 10 (12) [14] {16}: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same stitch, *skip ch and next dc, v stitch in next, v stitch in ch space, skip next dc, v stitch in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st

If the repeat doesn’t work out perfectly, that’s ok. It doesn’t matter exactly how many v stitches there are, just that a “bell” shape is created

Repeat round 3 & 4 to round 27 (29) [31] {33} (stripe pattern below)

Stripes are as follows:

Begin stripes on round 22 (24) [26] {28}:

1 row of B, A, B, C, B, C

Sleeve should reach approximately to your wrist. If it doesn’t, add or take out rows as needed

Fasten off, weave in your ends

And you’re done!! I hope you love this duster cardigan!

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  1. I love all your work , i wish you did videos , I’m a big time visual learner and although I’ve been crocheting for many years i still get confused with patterns , especially when things need to be sewn together….. Any chance of you ever doing you tube videos

      1. I wish you did do videos, this is beautiful I too am a visual learner my daughter would love this…How long did it take you?

        Thank you
        Kay

    1. I’m stuck. 🙁 I’m to the point of laying the front panels on top of the back panel. As I whip stitch the first front panel to the back I’m realizing that after doing both fronts there is no opening for where the cardigan should be against your neck. Am I only supposed to whip stich a few stitches? If so how many for a size large. Thank you

  2. Hi, really nice cardigan ! I’ll definitely try it !
    When you say 500gr for S/M, is it for main color or main + accent color?
    Thanks !

    1. If you wanted to do the stripes as pictured, I would say about 4 of the main color (khaki), 2 of the second (top stitch), 1 of the third (corduroy)

      1. It’s good to hear your estimate at least about how many skeins of each color are needed. It would also be good to hear how many yards instead of grams. I don’t understand why giving the weight is becoming trendy when any experienced crocheter or knitter knows that it’s the yardage and the thickness of the yarn that is most important.

  3. Hi Breann, I am absolutely loving this pattern! I’m at the part where I have to sew the front panels to the back. I was wondering, do you sew everything inside out, and then crochet the sleeves inside out too, or is everything done right side out? Thank you so much for this pattern, I cannot wait to finish it up!

      1. Do you see the whole way across the shoulders? How much space do you leave open or not sown on for the neck whole/opening?

        1. Hi! I lined up the stitches across the shoulders on each side. This should leave an inch or two opening between each side on the front.

      1. Hi! I’m currently making this amazing cardigan for a friend of mine and would love to show my progress using my own photos on my blog. Is it cool if I share a link back to your awesome work?

      2. What about that crazy increase row? It seems that the cardigan, from the waist down, will poof out too much. Can you show a picture of your garment to this point?

        1. Hi! There’s only one increase row. It creates a little bit of a bell shape but it doesn’t poof out. The one I’m wearing in the photo has the increase row at the hips 🙂

  4. Hey, I recently found your site and I am loving what I have found so far.

    I have not yet started to crochet as I am confused by the chain lengths for the front and back pieces. Taking the small as an example. The back piece is a chain of 62, and the front pieces are chains of 32. Mathematically, this would mean that when the chains are lined up, there is a slight overlap at the middle, however, in the picture there is a gap between the two front pieces. Am I reading it wrong, or does it come out slightly differently when the first rows are finished?

    I have only really done baby blankets and scarves before now so sorry if this is a dumb question.

  5. Hi, I am currently making this cardigan but I am really struggling with the sleeves. I cannot figure where to slip stitch into at the end of each row. At both the end of row 3 and the end of row 4 it says ‘ slip stitch to first chain 3, slip stitch to first chain 3’. Because I can’t seem to get this part sorted the slip stitch over 2 stitches at the beginning of row 3 is not making sense. Are you able to clarify this please?
    Thanks Paula.

    1. Hi! At the end of the round you should join to the top of the first ch 3 of the round. But because you want to start this round in the next double crochet work a sl st in the next ch space, then a sl st in the next double crochet. This is where the round will start. Hope that helps!

  6. Hi I have had this pattern saved forever,I was looking for a long boho vest pattern and found this duster pattern in my pattern folder. I was looking over the instructions and relized that the sleeves are made seprate so I have reworked it to make a vest. I will send you a picture when I am finished with it. thank you. I will also be making the duster cardigan.

  7. Hi, I have only just found this cardigan and it is gorgeous. I’m wanting to make this as a gradient, so was wondering if you know how much yarn each panel (back, front X2, sleeves X2) uses as opposed to the total amount for the cardigan.

    1. Hi! Sorry, I don’t :/ I’m thinking the front and back use equal amounts. I would get (at least) one additional skein. Whenever I’m trying to match up colors/stripe patterns I always end up with some waste because it didn’t match up.

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