This Basic Crochet Socks Pattern use worsted weight yarn and are all single crochet! They work up surprisingly fast and are beginner friendly. A great Holiday gift.
These socks are very fitted, especially around the ankle. If you want the cuff looser you can either go up a hook size for the cuff, or make the cuff shorter. One skein of worsted weight yarn is needed for a size small and medium. Just over one skein will be needed for a Large. Or you can make the cuff shorter to compensate for the longer foot length.
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Basic Crochet Socks Pattern
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Worsted weight yarn 100g for S/M, 115g for L (I used my hand dyed yarn in the color Santa’s Little Helper)
G/4.0 mm hook
Pattern notes & stitches to know
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
· written in US terms
· ch 1 does not count as sc
· Socks are made in continuous rounds. Meaning you do not join after each round, simply keep going. Use a stitch markers to keep track of the first stitch in each round
· These socks are very fitted, especially around the ankle. If you want the cuff looser you can either go up a hook size for the cuff, or make the cuff shorter.
· One skein of worsted weight yarn is needed for a size small and medium. Just over one skein will be needed for a Large. Or you can make the cuff shorter to compensate for the longer foot length.
· Gauge: 8 sc x 10 rows = 2” x 2”
S, M, L – This pattern is written in these sizes consecutively. The only difference between these sizes is the foot length. Sizes are based on standard US shoe sizes. S is shoe size 4 – 6.5, M is 7 – 9.5, L is 10 – 12.5
Approx Finished Size:
Width at foot: 4”
Width at ankle: 3.5”
Cuff length: 3.25”
Heel to toe length: S (8.5”) M (9.5”) L (10.5”)
Small pictured on women’s US shoe size 5.5
BASIC CROCHET SOCKS PATTERN (make 2)
Make a magic ring
Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring, pull ring closed tight (6 sc)
Do not join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of next round
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12 sc)
Continue moving the stitch marker into the first stitch of each round
Round 3: *sc in 1 stitch, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around (18 sc)
Round 4: *sc in 2 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around (24 sc)
Round 5: *sc in 3 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around (30 sc)
Round 6: *sc in 4 stitches, 2 sc in next* repeat from * to * around (36 sc)
The circle should have a diameter of approx 2.5”. To adjust, go up or down a hook size
Round 7: sc in each stitch around (36 sc)
Repeat round 7 to Round 38 for S, 43 for M, 48 for L (36 sc)
The heel begins in the next row. The sock should reach right up to the ankle at this point. Add or take out rounds as needed. These will stretch when worn.
The heel is worked in turned rows
Row 1: ch 1, turn, sc in 27 stitches (27 sc)
To make the ankle wider, reduce the number of stitches in row 1
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across (27 sc)
Repeat previous row to Row 7 (27 sc)
Row 8: ch 1, turn, *sc, sc2tog* repeat from * to * across (18)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc2tog across (9)
Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc2tog across to last stitch, sc in last stitch (5)
Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc2tog across to last stitch, sc in last stitch (3)
Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc3tog
Do not fasten off.
The cuff is worked around the opening of the sock. To make the cuff looser, go up a hook size.
Round 1: sc evenly around the opening of the sock (approx. 36 stitches – add or take out stitches to your liking)
Do not join. Add a stitch marker to the first stitch of the next round
Round 2: sc in each stitch around
Repeat round 2 to Round 20 (or to desired length)
Sl st in next 2 stitches. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
And you’re done! I hope you love these socks!