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Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern

The Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern is the perfect blend of comfort and texture. Whether you’re new to making garments or looking for your next relaxing project, this sweater brings together simple construction with beautiful stitch details. A combination of berry stitches, double crochet, and filet work creates just the right amount of texture and drape.

Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern - The Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern is my new favorite sweater! It uses a fun and easy stitch combination. I used double crochet, chain stitches, and the berry stitch to create this texture.

🧶 Yarn & Materials

  • Yarn Weight: DK (#3)
  • Yarn Used: Kindred by WeCrochet (discontinued)
  • Substitute: Any DK weight yarn with a soft drape and good stitch definition
  • Hook Size: 4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Notions: Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors

Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern- The Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern is my new favorite sweater! It uses a fun and easy stitch combination. I used double crochet, chain stitches, and the berry stitch to create this texture.

🧵 Construction Details

The Kindred Sweater is made from two simple panels—a front and a back—that are sewn together at the shoulders and sides. After joining the panels, you’ll crochet the sleeves directly into the armholes, making it easy to customize the sleeve length.

For a polished finish, you’ll add single crochet ribbing:

  • Along the bottom hem
  • Around the neckline
  • At the sleeve cuffs

This gives the sweater a clean, tailored look without complicated shaping.

Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern - The Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern is my new favorite sweater! It uses a fun and easy stitch combination. I used double crochet, chain stitches, and the berry stitch to create this texture.

📏 Sizing & Fit

The Kindred Sweater pattern includes sized S – 3X. It has a relaxed, boxy fit with optional sleeve length customization. Choose your usual size for a standard fit or size up for a cozy, oversized style.

🧣 Styling Ideas

Pair your finished Kindred Sweater with:

  • High-waisted jeans or leggings for a casual day out
  • A flowy skirt for a cozy, feminine vibe
  • Layer it over a collared shirt for a classic look

Choose neutrals for a wardrobe staple, or go bold with color blocking or variegated yarn!

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Kindred Sweater Crochet Pattern

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Materials
WeCrochet Kindred Yarn in Wintergreen ((8, 9, 10) (11, 12, 13) skeins)
G+/4.5 mm hook
Yarn needle
Scissors

Level
intermediate

Pattern notes & stitches to know
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
sc blo – single crochet back loop only
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
berry – yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one loop on hook, yarn over, insert hook into stitch,
yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on hook
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together
dc3tog – double crochet 3 together
rs – right side
ws – wrong side

· written in US terms

· ch 1 does not count as sc or berry

· ch 2 does not count as dc or hdc

· This sweater is made with the front and back panels being sewn together, and then the sleeves are added.

· The front and back panels both start with the ribbing along the bottom.

· Gauge: 6 dc x 3 rows = 1.5” x 1.5”

Sizes:
(S, M, L) (XL, 2X, 3X) – The pattern is written in these sizes consecutively. Example, when the pattern gives the end of row count ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc) the 71 is for S, 79 is M, 87 is L, 95 is XL, 103 is 2X, 111 is 3X.

This sweater is a classic fit with no positive ease

Approx Finished Size:
Bust: S (33”) M (37”) L (41”) XL (45”) 2X (49”) 3X (53”)
Length: S (17”) M (17”) L (17.75”) XL (17.75”) 2X (18.5”) 3X (18.5”)
Armhole Width: S (6.5”) M (7”) L (7.5”) XL (8”) 2X (8.5”) 3X (9”)
Sleeve Length (from the neckline): S (22”) M (22”) L (22.75”) XL (22.75”) 2X (23.5”) 3X (23.5”)
Size Small pictured. I am 5’0” with 34” bust

KINDRED SWEATER CROCHET PATTERN

FRONT

ch 11

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and across (10 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, sc blo in next 8 stitches, sc in last (10)

Row 3 – (71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111): repeat row 2 (10)

The ribbing is the width of the sweater, easily adjust the width by adding or taking out rows (you need an odd number of ribbing rows)

Now you will turn and work across the long edge of the ribbed band

Row 1 (ws): ch 1, sc evenly across, working 1 sc in the end of each row ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) dc)

Row 3 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((36, 40, 44) (48, 52, 56) hdc)

Row 4 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch and ch space across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 5 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *berry in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111))

Row 6 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 7 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((36, 40, 44) (48, 52, 56) hdc)

Row 8 – 10: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) dc)

Row 11 – 40: repeat rows 3 – 10

The neckline begins in the next row. One side of the neckline is made first, then rejoin to make the other side. You will only work partway across the row.

Row 41 (ws): ch 2, turn, dc in (21, 25, 29) (33, 37, 41) stitches, dc3tog ((22, 26, 30) (34, 38, 42) dc)

Row 42 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in remaining stitches across ((21, 25, 29) (33, 37, 41) dc)

Row 43 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((11, 13, 15) (17, 19, 21) hdc)

Row 44 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc3tog, sc in remaining stitches and ch spaces across ((19, 23, 27) (31, 35, 39) sc)

Row 45 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *berry in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((19, 23, 27) (31, 35, 39))

Row 46 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc3tog, sc in remaining stitches across ((17, 21, 25) (29, 33, 37) sc)

Row 47 (ws) – Row (48, 48, 50) (50, 52, 52): continue with pattern repeat of rows 3 – 10

Or until desired length.

Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.

Next the other side of the neckline is made. Lay front with ws facing out. Rejoin yarn on the left side, (24, 28, 32) (36, 40, 44) stitches in from the left on row 41.

Row 41 (ws): ch 2, dc3tog, dc in each stitch across ((22, 26, 30) (34, 38, 42) dc)

Row 42 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across to the last 2, dc2tog ((21, 25, 29) (33, 37, 41) dc)

Row 43 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((11, 13, 15) (17, 19, 21) hdc)

Row 44 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc across in each stitch and ch space to last 3 stitches, sc3tog ((19, 23, 27) (31, 35, 39) sc)

Row 45 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *berry in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across ((19, 23, 27) (31, 35, 39))

Row 46 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across to the last 3 stitches, sc3tog ((17, 21, 25) (29, 33, 37) sc)

Row 47 (ws) – Row (48, 48, 50) (50, 52, 52): continue with pattern repeat of rows 3 – 10

Or until desired length.

Do not fasten off.

COLLAR

Working along the curved neckline, sc evenly (approx 1 sc in the end of each row) around to the opposite corner of the neckline

ch 6

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and across, join to sc in the sc row of the collar with sl st (5 sc)

Row 2: sl st to next stitch in the sc row of the collar, turn, sc in first stitch, sc blo in next 3, sc in last stitch

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in the first stitch, sc blo in next 3, sc in the last stitch, sl st to the next sc in the sc row of the collar (5 sc)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you work all the way around the collar.

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

BACK

ch 11

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and across (10 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, sc blo in next 8 stitches, sc in last (10)

Row 3 – (71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111): repeat row 2 (10)

Now you will turn and work across the long edge of the ribbed band

Row 1 (ws): ch 1, sc evenly across, working 1 sc in the end of each row ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 2 (rs): ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) dc)

Row 3 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((36, 40, 44) (48, 52, 56) hdc)

Row 4 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch and ch space across (71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 5 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, *berry in next, sc in next* repeat from * to * across (71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111))

Row 6 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across (71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) sc)

Row 7 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across ((36, 40, 44) (48, 52, 56) hdc)

Row 8 – 10: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch across ((71, 79, 87) (95, 103, 111) dc)

Row 11 – Row (48, 48, 50) (50, 52, 52): repeat rows 3 – 10

Or until desired length.

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

SEWING

With ws facing out, lay the front panel on top of the back. Sew the shoulders closed with whipstitch. Sew the sides closed leaving a (6.5”, 7”, 7.5”) (8”, 8.5”, 9”) space at the top for armholes.

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Turn right side out.

SLEEVES

With rs facing out, join to the bottom of an armhole.

Round 1(rs): ch 1, sc evenly around the armhole (this number needs to be an even number)

Round 2 (rs): ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to first dc with sl st

Round 3 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, *hdc in next, ch 1, skip 1 stitch* repeat from * to * around, join to first hdc with sl st

Round 4 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch and ch space around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 5 (ws): ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, berry in next, *sc in next, berry in next* repeat from * to * around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 6 (rs): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to first sc with sl st

Round 7 (ws): ch 2, turn, hdc in first stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, hdc in next* repeat from * to * across

Round 8 – 10: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch around

Round 11 – (40, 40, 42) (42, 44, 44): repeat rows 3 – 10

or until 2” short of desired sleeve length

Round (41, 41, 43) (43. 45. 45): ch 1, turn, sc2tog around, join to first sc with sl st

Round (42, 42, 44) (44, 46, 46): ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join to firs sc with sl st

CUFF

ch 11

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, join to the last round of the sleeve with sl st (10 sc)

Row 2: sl st to next stitch in the last round of the sleeve, turn, sc in first stitch, sc blo in next 6, sc in last stitch (10 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in the first stitch, sc blo in next 6, sc in the last stitch, sl st to the last round of the sleeve (10 sc)

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until you work all the way around the sleeve. Sew the cuff closed with a whip stitch

Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Repeat for other sleeve.

And you’re done! I hope you love this sweater!

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16 Comments

  1. Hi,
    I can’t wear alpaca. I really would like to try this sweater but need a substitute yarn. Do you have a good cotton recommendation? Thanks!

    Bobbie Calgaro

  2. On the sleeves, it says attach to bottom of armhole and chain 11, then proceeds to row 1 with sc around the arm with even stitches. Is the chain 11 a typo?

  3. Loving this sweater! I’m looking at the pattern and wondering two things 1) Is there ribbing on the back of the sweater and 2) can I substitute a FPDC/BPDC?

          1. I love this jumper I made it with Drops cotton merino and added a rib on the back piece too to finish the collar. It has come up a little snugger than i thought I am 5’2″ and 32″ in the bust so did small. Am definately planning to make it again in another colour so might go a bit bigger next time. And have checked out and brought some of your etsy patterns. Thank you for such lovely crochet designs!!!

  4. Hi – row 4 says sc in each stitch & chain space across, but row 8 says dc in each stitch across – shouldn’t it be dc in each stitch & chain space across? I think so, just making sure

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